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Friday, September 08, 2006

Witches Call Up Magic In Mexico's Los Tuxtlas

The witch is cloaked in a black gown with a Chinese yin-and-yang sign, representing the moon and sun. Dark and light.

Through lace curtains, a shaft of light casts an eerie glow onto the altar. A spindly, wooden red devil dominates the table, towering over the potbellied Hindu elephant deity Lord Ganesha and statuettes of Merlin, Buddha and Shiva.

This is the room where Ignacio Cobix casts spells of life and death, love and spite.

His timber house is a block from Lake Catemaco, where Mexicans come for boating, fishing, bird-watching and spiritual cleansing. Catemaco is one of three major villages in the Los Tuxtlas region south of the port of Veracruz. Like neighboring San Andrés Tuxtla and Santiago Tuxtla, Catemaco is shaped by virescent volcanoes and magic realism. Here, hexes and blessings are muttered in the same breath. Full Story

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